From the 1st August 2024 Tony Lewis FRICS Chartered Surveyor is amalgamating with Cowie Consulting Providing RICS Level 2 and Level 3 Home Surveys, residential valuations for all purposes, Help to Buy and Expert Witness reporting

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Cracking up!

September 8, 2023

The Truth About Subsidence

It is the scariest word in the property owner’s dictionary because you know you will be facing a bill of four figures and your home will be un-saleable until you get the problem sorted out. But subsidence is something you can help to prevent and often is not a problem.


Your home is unlikely to fall down around your ears – even the most famous case of subsidence, the Leaning Tower of Pisa, is still standing!


Calling in the Experts


Do not expect subsidence to be sorted out overnight. The standard procedure is for the Insurer to ask you to appoint your own Building Surveyor or engineer or send in its own expert. A report setting out the extent of the problem and outlining what should be done will be prepared.


In most cases, it is difficult to say exactly what is causing the problem and the Insurer may want to monitor things for several months, if not years. In the past, people rushed to repair their homes only to find cracks re-appearing because the subsidence had not been stopped.


Counting the Cost


Even though your Insurer will pay for the remedial work (after you have been charged an excess of around £1,000), the disruption is very stressful and you are unlikely to be able to move until your home is secure and given clearance.


There are other financial considerations too. Once your home is back to normal, you will probably be stuck with your existing Buildings Insurer (so forget negotiating premiums). And, of course, your homes track history could put potential buyers off. Some buyers walk away as soon as they hear the word subsidence.

 

That Sinking Feeling


Subsidence is nearly always related to water or lack of it. Typically, low rainfall causes soil under buildings to dry out and shrink. If the shrinkage is uneven, the foundations of your home will sink more in one part than another. This can lead to everything from cracks to walls to separation from the rest of the building. The most vulnerable homes are those on clay soil. The worst affected areas are London and the South East. About 1 in 50 houses in the region is recorded as having suffered from subsidence over the last 25 years.


It is not untypical that about 1 in 5 subsidence claims result from drains leaking into sandy soil. This is something you may be able to spot at an early stage. In any older property, there is a chance that the drains could be leaking. Specialist companies can investigate this for a reasonable cost (from around £250), and it is worth considering if you are worried about subsidence.


The other cause of ground movement is trees, and this is an area where all homeowners should take extra care.


Still Got That Sinking Feeling?


Most cracks are nothing to worry about. In fact, experts now acknowledge that many homes were underpinned “inappropriately” in the 1980’s (some sources suggest the figure could be over half).


You can help to protect your home by gardening with care and maintaining drains and gutters properly.


Contact your Insurer if diagonal cracks (5mm wide or more and wider at one end than the other), appear at the corner of windows or door frames. Other areas of concern are cracks around bay windows and floors that suddenly start to slope.


In most cases, you will be asked to wait for at least a few months while your home is monitored to find out the cause of the problem.


Cracks are usually monitored using 'Tell Tales' but you can measure a crack using our handy print at home crack gauge found here. Simply download the PDF and follow the instructions provided to print off.


Download PDF Crack Gauge

 

Once printed, simply place the crack gauge against any visible cracks and line up with the Red shaded areas on the back or use the ruler on the front. If there are cracks around your home that you are concerned about please feel free to take a photo and send them to us along with your contact details and we would be happy to help you.


For expert advice and surveying services contact:

Cowie Consulting Limited

Telephone: 01325 480424

Email: info@cowieconsulting.net   

 

 


Helpful Guides and News

July 7, 2023
It's important to keep on top of pointing to help protect your home and to improve its' aesthetic appeal so we have put together this guide on how to repoint brickwork in 6 simple steps. Generally it is recognised that well-built brickwork requires little maintenance, however as a building ages the mortar will start to decay through natural causes or structural movement. In the event of the above, re-pointing of the brickwork will be required. Ideally, re-pointing should not be undertaken during the winter as there is danger of frost, but, if there is a need to undertake re-pointing in winter, the work needs to be covered against the elements. Re-pointing should commence at the top left hand corner of the area to be re-pointed, working across and then downward. It is advisable to work on 2m² at a time. There are several types of joints for brickwork. For general re-pointing to external brickwork the “weather struck” and “weather struck and cut” joints are most satisfactory for weathering. For older brickwork it is normal practice to try and repeat the original type of joint finish. These are usually a “flush joint” or a “round joint”. The mix of mortar is an essential part of successful re-pointing and the mix should be carefully chosen to suit the brick type, appearance and exposure conditions. General applications: 1:1:6 (cement/lime/sand) Softer facing brick: 1:2:9 (cement/lime/sand) Hard dense bricks in exposed locations: 1:0.5:3 (cement/lime/sand) A soft washed or silver sand is best suited to re-pointing work. The following is a brief outline of the re-pointing procedure. Specification: 1. Rake out the vertical joints of the brickwork then the horizontal to a depth of approximately 15mm. The remaining mortar but be square. 2. Thoroughly brush the joints with a stiff brush to remove any dust or loose particles. 3. Dampen the surrounding area in order to reduce the suction of the existing mortar and bricks. Be careful not to soak the brickwork. 4. Filling the vertical joints (perpends), first press the mortar in and tuck it into the bed joints above and below the perpend. Next fill the bed joint and bound the perpend. Only a small number of perpends should be completed in advance of the bed joints. 5. During pointing, only a relatively small amount of mortar should be mixed to prevent mortar drying out. Never reconstitute the mortar with more water. 6. Once joints are filled, they should be tooled or cut, according to the type of joint to be used. Brush away loose material with a soft brush. If the re-pointing is a result of a crack to the wall, it is suggested that the crack is not pointed independently but a panel surround the crack is re-pointed in order to match the re-pointing with the existing. It is advisable to test the mortar in an out of sight area and let it cure to ensure a good match with the existing mortar is achieved. If the above brief guide is followed, effective re-pointing should be achieved. The information provided should only be used prior to discussions with, and approval of, a qualified professional and re-pointing should only be undertaken following correct diagnosis. For expert advice and surveying services contact us: Cowie Consulting Limited 01325 480 424 info@cowieconsulting.net Here are some examples of poor pointing that we have come across recently which could potentially cause problems such as internal damp or eventual failure of the brickwork, therefore it's important to keep on top pointing to protect weather performance and the integrity of your home.
July 7, 2023
Alan Cowie with his book in aid of Macmillan Cancer Support (Image: Peter Barron, Northern Echo)
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